Dermaplaning is a physical exfoliation procedure. It requires the use of a sterile, surgical scalpel to gently “shave” the skin’s surface, removing the top-most layer of dead skin along with fine, vellus hair (aka peach fuzz). The procedure can be performed monthly, in less than thirty minutes, with no downtime post-treatment. Dermaplaning is only performed on the face; however, it is not meant to be used to shape eyebrows, which are made up of “terminal” (not vellus) hairs. The nose is also avoided. Estheticians, nurses or doctors may perform the treatment, depending on state regulations.
Benefits of Dermaplaning
Physical exfoliation triggers the cell regeneration process and allows products to better penetrate the skin. Some practitioners perform a chemical peel post-Dermaplaning (I wouldn’t recommend this if you’ve never had either treatment before or have sensitive skin). Dermaplaning is also excellent to rid the face of excess fine hairs which can often accumulate dirt and oil. Contrary to popular belief, vellus hairs, as opposed to terminal hair, will not grow back thicker or darker. However, Dermaplaning is not suitable for those with excessive facial hair (see below). Microdermabrasion, which also physically exfoliates the skin, does not remove vellus hair. Exfoliation of dead cells along with the removal of fine hairs results in healthier, brighter skin that has a smoother look and feel.
Who should consider Dermaplaning?
Dermaplaning is especially effective on those with dry or rough skin texture and helps to minimize superficial acne scarring or uneven skin tone. It is also beneficial for mature skin, which tends to have a buildup of dead cells as cellular turnover slows down with age. Dermaplaning is safe for pregnant or lactating clients who cannot have chemical peels (peels penetrate the skin to act at the cellular level, thus are contraindicated).
Who should avoid Dermaplaning?
Those with very oily or active acne should avoid this procedure as well as anyone with thick, dark facial hair. Acne-prone skin can become sore and irritated with this procedure. Those with excessive facial hair will notice stubble as it grows back and experiences “razor rashes”, spots under the skin and ingrown hairs.
What to Expect?
The treatment begins with cleansing and thoroughly drying your skin. Next, the specialist pulls the skin taut, and then holds the scalpel at an angle and uses short strokes to carefully scrape the skin’s outer layer. The procedure doesn’t cause any discomfort and is similar to shaving your legs. Dermaplaning is often combined with a chemical peel, especially for patients who are beginning a new skincare regimen. It can also help prepare the skin for more invasive procedures, such as laser skin rejuvenation.